October 16, 2018

If the Suit Fits (It’s Probably Custom) – Part 2: The Rise and Fall of Comfort (and Trousers)

By Andrew Yamato Last month I outlined what I think are the elements of proper fit for suit jackets and sport coats, Before I continue that analysis with trousers, I’d like to take a look how we arrived at a moment in menswear whengood fit is such a rarity. Bearing in mind that any notion of sartorial propriety is to some extent a matter of personal preference, I believe that comfort is at least as important as appearance to good fit. For most of the past century this belief was generally shared by a menswear trade that was heavily invested […]
June 6, 2018

The Change of Taste

Custom tailors and clothiers are famously wary of Fashion. We generally offer (or at least market) the more mature, manly virtue of Style, usually based on notions of “classic” or “timeless” taste and proportion that transcend trends. For the rest of the world, however, clothing and fashion are so closely connected that they’re virtually synonymous, a happy roiling riot of whim and consumption. Even as we watch the show from the ancient ramparts of tailored menswear, we do well to remember that our fortress is itself built on shifting sands. What drives fashion trends? “Novelty,” while absolutely true in and […]